Designing Bulb Gardens
By admin | June 23, 2008
There are few things nicer that planting bulbs as part of a mixed garden scheme. To begin with, ensure your bulbs are planted in an area that gets a full hot four to six hours of sunlight each day. This sunshine is most critical during the post-flowering period when the leaves are soaking up sunshine and turning that energy into next years flower. Without this sunshine, your bulbs are annuals.
In the perennial garden, plant them deeper than the package says. As a rule of thumb, plant bulbs three times as deep as the bulb is high. So, if your bulb is two inches across at its widest point, plant the little fellow six inches deep. I used to plant mine eight to twelve inches deep so they wouldn’t be in the way when I was digging and moving perennials around. This deeper planting also seems to help bulbs survive the extremes in heat, drought and cold.
Let me suggest you plant in clumps of ten to fifteen bulbs. The more clumps the better as the spring show will be enhanced by the concentrations of color. Plant summer blooming perennials next to the bulb clumps so that when the bulbs are finished with their month in the spotlight, the perennials are just about to start blooming or starting to grow upwards for summer blooming. When the bulb foliage dies down, the perennial foliage will fill the space.
Remember that planting in clumps is our objective; this will give you a more impressive show than sprinkling a bulb or two here and there throughout the garden. A rule of thumb if you want to make a superb display that will green up the neighbors as well as the garden is to average one bulb per square foot of garden space. You can get information on planting and caring for bulbs here.
Doug Green is an award winning garden author of 7 books and writes a free gardening newsletter at http://www.beginner-gardening.com/gardeningflowertips.html
Tags: daffodils, flower bulbs, gardening, TulipsUnusual Daffodil Stories
By admin | June 11, 2008
Stories about flowers always interest me and those about daffodils are particularly interesting. Did you know that if you keep chickens, you may not want to bring daffodils into the house. An old saying in Herfordshire U.K. tells us that if you bring daffodils inside when the hens are sitting, no chicks will be born alive. The opposite of this in Devon, says that the number of goslings that will be hatched and reared is the same as the number of daffodil flower stems that are brought into the house in the first bouquet of the year. In Europe, daffodil colonies often indicate an old religious site. Apparently the daffodils were planted by the monastery inhabitants and years after the demise of the buildings, the plants continue to grow.
The daffodil family or narcissus is poisonous and we’re told by knowledgeable bulb historians that mortally wounded Roman soldiers would eat a few bulbs. The bulb would work its narcotic wonder and the soldier would painlessly die. I have never tried to eat one but am told you do not have to worry about your children eating them as they are one of the vilest tasting bulbs around. This vile taste is nature’s way of protecting them from predators.
Now, a lesser-known epithet when applied to soldiery is to be called a daffodil. Apparently this means that they are nice to look at but yellow through and through. This term was apparently used in official British correspondence during the second world war and caused a bit of a diplomatic problem between the British and Australians. The British saying it was the Australian daffodils that lost Singapore and the Australians pointing out the real nature of the problem was British leadership.
Whatever the story, enjoy your bright yellow daffodils this spring.
Doug Green, award winning garden author of 7 gardening books, answers questions in his free gardening newsletter at http://www.flower-garden-bulbs.com
Tags: daffodil flowers, daffodils, gardeningForcing Bulbs - Brighten Your Winter Home with Spring Colors
By admin | May 17, 2008
Nothing brightens a dreary winter day like a bouquet of fresh flowers. But there’s no need to venture out in the cold to purchase pre-cut flowers that won’t last; you can grow your own long-lasting arrangement in the comfort of your home. Forcing bulbs to bloom in your home is an excellent way to bring a little of that spring color you’ve been dreaming of inside during that last long cold stretch of winter. It’s also a great project to do with the kids or grandchildren. With just a few simple steps and a bit of patience, you will soon have a flower display that will be the envy of your neighbors.
First, we need to define what is meant by forcing. Forcing is tricking the bulb into thinking that it’s spring. That is achieved by creating an environment that pushes the bulb through its natural growth stages more quickly than they would occur on their own.
Now the fun begins! Pick out the type of bulbs you wish to grow. Some popular choices are tulips, narcissus, hyacinths, daffodils and amaryllis. When selecting, it is important to remember that this is one of the cases where bigger is better! If you encounter a situation where you can purchase a large or small bulb of the same variety, choose the larger of the two. Large, high-quality bulbs are preferable because the larger bulb contains more of the food required to produce a healthy, flowering plant. Or, more simply, a bigger bulb produces more flowers, and that is really what we all want. Select bulbs in much the same way you would choose a melon at the grocery store. Pick it up and give it a squeeze; it should be firm, not mushy. A healthy bulb is dry to the touch, but should not feel dried out. Also, avoid any that show signs of mold or mildew. Your nose can help, too. Don’t buy anything that smells pungent or offensive.
CFD Tip! Look for labels that say “good for forcing.”
Plant your bulbs close together, but not touching one another, in equal parts compost, sand and peat, a compost rich potting soil or Cottage Farms Grower’s Formula. There should only be about 2″ of potting medium below the bulbs, and the top of the bulb (the pointed end) should be even with the surface of the soil. If the bulb has a flat side, like tulips do, plant with the flat side facing the edge of the pot. This allows the first, and largest, leaves to form an attractive border around the edge of the pot. It is very important to use a pot that has good drainage holes, as bulbs will rot if left in standing water. Also, select clean pots; you don’t want to transfer disease from other plants. If using a terracotta or clay pot, soak the container in water for a few hours to fully saturate the pores and ensure optimal moisture retention. After planting, water the pot thoroughly and allow to it drain for a day before beginning the chilling process.
CFD Tip! Don’t mix varieties in the same container since dates of flowering will likely vary.
It is now time to chill the bulbs. The easiest method for chilling is to keep the pots in a refrigerator where the temperature can be easily maintained at 40-45 degrees Fahrenheit. There is no need to water the bulbs during the chilling period, but in order for the plant to produce healthy foliage and blooms, it is important that they are kept in the dark as consistently as possible.
CFD Tip! Cover them with a box or a bag to ensure complete darkness, even when the refrigerator door is open.
Sometimes it is necessary to store bulbs before planting. If you must do so, keep them in the refrigerator in breathable mesh or plastic bags (like the ones they are sold in), paper bags with holes, or an open tray. This storage period counts towards the time required for chilling.
CFD Tip! Do not store bulbs in the same bin as ripening fruit. Ripening fruit gives off ethylene gas that can cause flowers to form only partially or not at all.
Most bulbs need to be chilled for 12 to 14 weeks. The end of the chilling period can be identified by the emergence of roots from the drainage holes or fresh stems sprouting about two inches out of the top of the bulb. It is very important to leave them in cold storage for the proper amount of time. If the bulbs are not kept in long enough, the flowers may not form completely. If they are left too long, the stems may become too long. As a normative guide, if you want your bulbs to bloom in January, generally you’ll need to plant them in September; if you want them to bloom in February, begin in October, and so on.
CFD Tip! Label each pot with the type of plant, date planted, and the estimated date to be brought out of cold storage.
Once the bulbs have chilled for the required time period, remove the pots from cold storage and place them in indirect sunlight until the shoots turn green. Water the pots as needed to prevent the soil from drying out completely. When green, place the bulbs in a sunny window until flower buds emerge, rotating often to keep the stems growing straight. Then move the pot into its display area.
CFD Tip! Blossoms last longer if they are kept in a cool area with indirect light.
When forcing a bulb, you interrupt its natural growth cycle. Therefore you cannot force the same bulbs year after year (with the exception of amaryllis), but you may have some success replanting the bulbs in your yard. After flowering, remove the flower stems and place the pots in direct sunlight. This photosynthesis period is needed to nourish the bulbs. Then, when weather permits and all signs of frost have passed, the bulbs can be transplanted into the garden and should return to their normal cycle within a year or two.
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